A lot of good big SW swells came through of late. It was funny cause nobody really knew where to go. There was quite a bit of driving and looking and driving and looking. With waves even in the most sheltered of spots and outer reefs, which i never even knew existed, going crazy it was an interesting few weeks. It was really nice not having to drive for 2-3 hours to get waves for once!
Some crazy heavy beachie sessions with more closeout barrels than one can count and even more pitchings and wipeouts.
It's all fun and games until someone breaks their leg.
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